Western Region

The saree or sari represents Indian culture in its correct form. This ancient garment embodies the woman's personality, who is graceful and elite. The saree works wonders for your personality as it can be draped in different styles that vary in color, print, design, texture, fabric, and many other elements. 

1) Western Region

States: Gujarat, Maharashtra

    1. Aari stitch of Gujarat

  • Fabric material – Cotton, wool
  • Craft – It is a continuous fine chain stitch embroidery. The embroidery is done with an ari i.e. a needle with a hook.
  • Themes – The motifs of Aari work are derived from nature and include leaves, vines, flowers, trees, birds and animals.

           

                            Figure 1: Gujarati aari work saree

2.Ajrakh print of Gujarat

  • Fabric material – Cotton, silk, cotton-silk blends, viscose.
  • Craft – Block-printing on both sides by resist printing method. All the printing ingredients are natural.
  • Themes – The prints include bold geometric repeats, in combinations of centre field and border designs. Traditionally, these symmetrical patterns are printed and dyed in natural red and black, with the white cloth resisted on a dark indigo blue background. The names of some of these motifs are Amri Mohar (mango blossom), Surajmukhi (sunflowers), Kakkar (fluffy clouds) or Minkudi (traditional symmetrical pattern).

              
                          Figure 2: Ajrakh printed cotton saree

3.Applique work of Gujarat

  • Fabric material – Cotton, silk, blends.
  • Craft – Colourful and carefully stitched patchwork of various patterns.
  • Themes – Geometric, floral and animal motifs are commonly employed.

                
                        Figure 3: Applique handstitched cotton silk saree

4.Ashavali of Gujarat

  • Fabric material – Silk.
  • Craft – Brocade weaving.
  • Themes – The weaves include motifs of birds singing, animals dancing and flowers blooming. Ashavali sarees are distinguished by the enamelled look of the border.

               
                        Figure 4: Brocade handwoven ashavali saree

5.Bandhani/ Bandhej and Shibori of Gujarat

  • Fabric material – Loosely woven silk, georgette, cotton (malmal).
  • Craft – It is the art of tie-dye patterns. It is a resist dyeing process where the fabric is pinched and tied with thread before it is dyed.
  • Themes – A collection of dots are combined to form different shapes like paisley, flower, lotus, tiger, elephant, peacock, sparrow, parrot, circles, swastika, dates, grape, female figure carrying water, vines, and more. The difference between Bandhani and Shibori is in the colours, where Bandhani has vibrant hues and Shibori has subtle shades.

             
                          Figure 5: Bandhani cotton saree 

             

                   Figure 6: Bandhani Gajji silk saree (Gharchola saree)
               
                                 Figure 7: Shibori mul cotton saree

6.Bhujodi kala cotton of Gujarat

  • Fabric material – Kata cotton. It is an organic cotton that is indigenous to the Kutch region and is purely a rain fed crop.
  • Craft – Hand-woven and natural dyed. The Kala Cotton Initiative encourages sustainable cotton textile production in harmony with local ecology.
  • Themes – Art of Kutch extra weft.

               
                                    Figure 8: Kala cotton saree

7.Himroo of Maharashtra

  • Fabric material – Silk and cotton blend.
  • Craft – Hand-woven fabric having a light and luxurious satin base.
  • Themes – Himroo uses Persian floral designs and paisley motifs.

            
                                        Figure 9: Himroo saree

8.Paithani of Maharashtra

  • Fabric material – Silk, silk blends.
  • Craft – Hand-woven brocade
  • Themes – Traditionally the borders are an oblique square pattern (called narali as they resemble coconuts). The palloo has large motifs of paisley, peacock, floral, mango, lotus. The saree can be classified under three criteria:
    • Motifs- bangadimor, munia brocade, lotus brocade
    • Weaving- kadiyal border, ekdhoti
    • Colours- kalichandrakala, raghu, shirodak

              
                                      Figure 10: Paithani saree

9.Patola of Gujarat

  • Fabric material – Silk.
  • Craft – A double Ikat hand-woven sari. Resist dyeing on warp and weft is done using natural colours.
  • Themes – Parrots, flowers, elephants, dancing figures, geometric designs, floral basket, paan leaf or peepal tree leaf are the common motifs.


Depending on the pattern of weaving there are two types of Patola sarees:

  • Rajkot Patola -single Ikat and vertically resist dyed
  • Patan Patola-double Ikat pattern and horizontally resist dyed

                
                                      Figure 11: Patola silk saree

10.Rogan print of Gujarat

  • Fabric material – Cotton.
  • Craft – Direct printing by the application of thickened castor oil, which gives the print an elevated appearance.
  • Themes – The designs of Rogan printing are largely inspired by the Persian motifs. Geometric patterns and floral motifs are commonly used.

                
                                           Figure 12: Rogan printing

11.Soof embroidery of Gujarat

  • Fabric material – Cotton, linen.
  • Craft – Hand embroidery is done on the reverse side of the cloth, and the motifs are displayed when turned over. In this embroidery, there is no need of drawing, printing, outline by craftswomen as they do it by careful counting of the warp and weft.
  • Themes – Most of the embroidery is done in geometrical patterns, especially based on triangles.

             
                                Figure 13: Soof embroidered saree